Sunday, March 28, 2010

Syria--the Second Quartet

Most of us in the West know of mysterious Syria, but it remains dark, enigmatic, even forbidden, and we are often told (or imagine) that Americans are unwelcome there. Nothing could be further from the truth.

If Lebanon is West and occidental, then Syria is East and oriental, and for us, offered an exciting opportunity for deep exploration. Early Christianity likewise had an East and a West, and so much of what is obscure and unknown in the West to us now happened there in oriental Syria.

We may remember that Abraham and Sarah traveled slowly down through Syria on their journey into Palestine. In fact, the city of Aleppo (meaning “white” or “milk”) gets its name from an incident remembered from the ancient past when Abraham gave needy residents there milk from his white camel.

Early Christians fled persecution in Jerusalem to find refuge in Damascus, only to be pursued by Saul-Paul who mysteriously met the presence of Jesus on the road there and was welcomed by Christians in that city. Followers of Jesus were first called “Christianos” in Antioch of Syria, and the oriental Gospels of Thomas, Mary Magdalene and Philip were apparently penned there. Present day Syrian Christianity thrives there to this day, and some towns and villages, among them Ma’lula, which we visited, still speak the ancient language of Jesus (Aramaic) there.

Syria welcomed us with open arms. Its people, generous, gentle, and warm, made us feel entirely at home and safe there. Full of sights and sounds that carry quintessential Middle Eastern flavors linger around every corner of Damascus, Aleppo, Homes, Hama, and many other towns, regions and villages, and made us want to stay and explore everything.

What we discovered were ancient Mosques and Churches, which welcomed us in. We visited shrine sites and the tombs of Ibn al-‘Arabi, and the Prophet Muhammad’s great granddaughter, Roqayya, where we met Iranian pilgrims visiting there. We chanted in ancient places of worship and prayer where the sounds of our own harmonies spilled over to be enjoyed by others. We ate the most delicious Middle Eastern foods imaginable (among them camel kebob), and spent time exploring markets and bazaars and souks, and citadels. It was a magical swirl for us to be highlighted by a special invitation into the home of our Guide, Walid, where we shared a delicious Syrian meal with new friends. We bought brocades and head-dresses, rugs, spices, desserts, and fruits, and want very much to return to this new “oriental home” of ours.

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